Hi all, since ya’ll are self hosters, I’m sure you all deal with all sorts of different pieces of hardware, accessories, peripherals, and what not; just wondering if you could please share your favorite, solid, “go to” brands for overall things you need for your setup such as cables (all types), adapters, dongles, power accessories, hubs & docks, flash drives, you name it! I’m sure it varies depending on exactly what type of equipment you’re looking for but just looking for overall good brands to stick with for such things. I obviously know the main ones like Anker, Cable Matters, Ugreen, maybe Belkin, Idk. Would love to hear your recommendations! Thank you

  • fmstrat@lemmy.nowsci.com
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    10 months ago

    None. One year, Lenovo has the best Linux support. Another it might not. One year, Logi makes a solid mouse. Another year they do not. One year, a company makes a great product. Another year there is a privacy scandal.

    Look at what devs of the projects you use recommend, and read reviews withing 3 months of your purchase. Don’t pick a brand, pick a product.

  • callouscomic@lemm.ee
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    10 months ago

    There was a time I’d avoid Western Digital cause everything they made fails, and I mostly leaned toward SanDisk cause they were very reliable, and well, my avoidance list got larger.

    • jo3shmoo@sh.itjust.works
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      10 months ago

      I’ve had the exact opposite experience historically. Of 5 Seagate drives I’ve purchased over the last decade or so, only 1 of them is still working. Meanwhile 25+ WD hard drives are still in production over the same time with only 1 that started throwing smart errors a couple years back.

      • callouscomic@lemm.ee
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        10 months ago

        Not in my experience. I’ve never had a Hitachi that didn’t fail, and almost every WD I’ve ever had failed. Never had an issue with Seagate or Samsung before.

        • beefcat@lemmy.world
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          10 months ago

          There’s your individual experience, but I’m basing my statement on Backblaze’s annual drive failure rate reports.

  • ngoomie@pawb.social
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    10 months ago

    I use a VPS for the vast majority of my stuff to be clear, but from my experiences with PC building in particular, there’s not a PSU manufacturer I’d ever want to use anymore other than EVGA. The PSU in my PC randomly started dying some months back, randomly completely cutting power when it’d go over a certain voltage draw it was rated for and could previously handle without breaking a sweat, to the point that it severely disrupted both work AND play for me, when it came to heavier work tasks or heavy games. They replaced it for me while only requiring minimal information (I think the serial numbers, information about how it was behaving, and what tasks I do with my computer so they’d know I didn’t kill it by doing insane Bitcoin mining 24/7 or other cryptocurrency stuff, which they do not cover under warranty), and not only that, but since they did not have any more of my old model available (a 750 G3), they instead gave me a newer and better one (a 750 G5).

    • MigratingtoLemmy@lemmy.world
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      10 months ago

      Hey, I am very interested in the economics of self-hosting on a VPS vs building a whitebox server. As it stands, if I were to build a decent server from scratch + storage, it would cost me anywhere from $700-$1000+.

      Which services do you run, and does it make sense for you to run them on the VPS? I’m thinking of just having storage at home and most of my compute in the cloud

      • ngoomie@pawb.social
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        10 months ago

        I use a Hetzner VPS and as it stands right now I’m on their plan CX31 which costs me 9.20 EUR a month, plus additional 50 GB of storage which itself costs me an extra 2.20 EUR a month. Most of what I run on there instead of off my home computer are services I allow people other than me to use, some examples being an Akkoma instance, FreshRSS, email (using iRedMail), and a variety of game servers that come and go as me and my friends need them. Their cheapest plan has the ID CX11 and costs only 3.29 EUR a month and was actually perfect for my needs up until I started running some game servers that were a bit more heavy on CPU and RAM requirements like heavily modded Minecraft. The additional storage I mainly only started needing because of the Akkoma instance in particular, as the databases for fedi software can get very large very fast (and I’m not even caching media, it’s just text that was requiring all that storage space).

        Truth be told the main reason I self-host on a VPS instead of using hardware at home is because my home internet is just not reliable enough considering I’m running services I allow other people to use. I do run some things like Plex and Jackett off my own PC where it’s just me using it (literally in the case of Jackett, more just functionally in the case of Plex since I have a small handful of close friends who I’ve given library access but who only watch stuff from my library on occasion), but that’s about it.

        • MigratingtoLemmy@lemmy.world
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          10 months ago

          I will use a VPS box as a substitute for a homeserver. I have realised that I do not need much power, and having a server in the cloud is easier for me overall. Hetzner and Contabo for my budget, and I’ll look at Netcup. I’m also looking for a super cheap but reliable box to run headscale with. Overall, with a main VPS, a smaller VPS for headscale, and a small storage node, I’m looking to spend $15-$18 a month.

          How is the verification process for Hetzner?

          • ngoomie@pawb.social
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            10 months ago

            I think for verification I needed to send them photos of my provincial ID card (driver’s license would be fine if you had one) and that was about it, but it’s been long enough now that I don’t quite remember clearly

    • Macaroni9538@lemmy.mlOP
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      10 months ago

      Man thats shitty to hear. At least they fixed it! I’m having similar issues with my two usb c ports on my laptop and its been solo annoying. Just a ton of random disconnects and reconnects. I had one port completely replaced but I still have the issue from time to time.

  • PuppyOSAndCoffee@lemmy.ml
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    10 months ago

    Remember power!

    First and foremost, well-grounded power is essential. I haven’t done the whole house thing yet, but I am thinking about it and curious to know of other’s stories.

    For surge protectors, I like GE wall taps for form factor and Furman racks when there is space & need.

    For an uninterruptible power supply, I like APC. While they aren’t made in the USA like they used to (RIP), they have been reliable for me.

    Network (ISP Modem, WIFI, Switch) and tower CPU are all driven by UPS power. APC UPS, at least, is always drawing off the battery, so the upstream electronics are protected…a massive surge is far more likely to take out the battery. For laptops, surge protection is enough.

    I have not yet surge-protected the ISP lower power input… this is a real risk! I found a cheap one off Amazon, but I am worried it will degrade the network --> whole house may be better.

    Note - I have had a lightning strike get sent down the cable line, enter the home, blow out the cable modem, traverse into the network switch, blow out the switch, and nuke every active ethernet port (NAS, Apple TV, etc.), as well as jump the wire into low power security, physically blowing a hard-wired security panel off the wall and damaging a few hard-wired security points. Pretty crazy!

    • Macaroni9538@lemmy.mlOP
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      10 months ago

      Holy crap thats crazy! Are simple things like surge protectors pretty much equal? Is there a point in researching brands for such a presumably simple thing?

      • PuppyOSAndCoffee@lemmy.ml
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        10 months ago

        Depends, it’s all a gamble. Think of it like this … how much do you spend on your kit? A top end GPU is $1500 USD. A decent surge protector might cost $15. However suppose you cheap out and get one for $9.99…then a surge blows thru it and smokes your mobo&gpu. how much did that $5 in savings cost you?

        there is quite a bit that goes into it. And yet it’s not magic. Also, protection does wear out as load & surge is applied. So it’s not really worth it to pay top end, over and over, at least imo.

  • blackstrat@lemmy.fwgx.uk
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    10 months ago

    Networking I really like TP-Link with their Omada range. It’s like Ubiquity.

    Spinning Disk drives I always go Hitachi now.

    USB thumb drives SanDisk have been pretty good for me.

    Cables I like Ugreen, chargers I like Anker.

  • teuto@lemmy.teuto.icu
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    10 months ago

    For network cables, FS.com. Their specialty is fiber optics and they have good transceivers and cables for really cheap prices and they also sell a tool to flash vendor info onto transceivers so if you have some picky proprietary box you can still use generic transceivers with it. Their copper products, DACs, regular cat6 patch cables, etc are good too. I haven’t tried their NICs or switches though.

  • SirEDCaLot@lemmy.fmhy.net
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    10 months ago

    Routers - Netgate / pfSense. Best router GUI I’ve found. If you understand what you want to make happen, chances are you can figure out how to make it happen without touching a CLI. And generally free of Cisco for license bullshit.

    Routing and WiFi- Ubiquiti. Not as flexible as pfSense but even easier to use and if you do both routing and WiFi with them you get a bunch of cool analytics. Their surveillance package is great too as long as you use their cameras, pretty much the best mobile surveillance app I’ve found. Door access system also gets a mention.

    Synology for almost everything they do, but particularly storage, backup, surveillance (they support almost every camera, albeit with a license requirement) and hosting of self hosted apps using a nice docker GUI. Not as much bang for buck vs. an old PC in terms of CPU power, but very easy to use.

    For home automation- Home Assistant or HomeSeer. Both are open platforms that support almost everything. Home Assistant pulls lightly ahead for me because it’s free and has more 3rd party integrations, even if it has a steeper hearing curve in some areas and some rough edges that require tweaking for basic usability (specifically, Z-Wave requires the ‘z-wave js ui’ plugin to take real control over a Z-Wave mesh, and Z-Wave door locks need the Keymaster plugin to get any sort of user code management, neither are straightforward to install). That said- pair Home Assistant with a Z-Wave dongle and some Inovelli light switches and you have a really beautiful setup with insane flexibility.

    • Macaroni9538@lemmy.mlOP
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      10 months ago

      Thank you! Pfsense is one thing I’m confused about… Its a software, right? Does it matter the type of router you use it on? Or do you buy routers that specifically have it installed?

      • SirEDCaLot@lemmy.fmhy.net
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        10 months ago

        It’s sort of both.

        Netgate is the company that develops pfSense. They make pfSense available as a download that you can run on your own hardware or your own VM. They also sell pfSense routers that have official support and a free upgrade to their slightly nicer ‘pfSense Plus’ version. I generally recommend the official hardware (support the project and all that, and it’s good quality if a bit more expensive). However if you want to save a few bucks you can get a cheap NUC-type PC with a few Intel Ethernet ports from Protectli or similar brands on Amazon.

        • Macaroni9538@lemmy.mlOP
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          10 months ago

          So would a router running pfsense then also become my primary WiFi routers too? Or is it best to keep pfsense strictly as a firewall and have a separate router strictly for WiFi?

          • SirEDCaLot@lemmy.fmhy.net
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            10 months ago

            So would a router running pfsense then also become my primary WiFi routers too? Or is it best to keep pfsense strictly as a firewall and have a separate router strictly for WiFi?

            pfSense doesn’t really do WiFi. So you’d use it as a router/firewall, then have something else do your WiFi. I generally recommend Ubiquiti.

            It’s worth noting that a ‘WiFi router’ is usually 3 separate things in one box- a router/firewall, a WiFi access point, and a small switch of usually 4-6 ports. In a home you usually want these things in the same place so they’re in one box. In an enterprise, the router/firewall is usually in the basement where there’s no WiFi, network switches may be in many places and a tiny one in the router won’t help you, and WiFi is up by where the workers are. So it’s that sort of setup that pfSense is designed for.

            The way I have my place set up- a pfSense machine is the router/firewall. I then use Netgear managed switches (there’s a few, mainly GS110TP’s), and Ubiquiti WiFi. The Ubiquiti controller runs inside Docker on a small Synology box. Highly recommend this setup.

            But I’d just as highly recommend going Ubiquiti all the way. Dream Machine Pro SE is a great base router/firewall, and it has a built in PoE switch so you can hang a few U6 Pro access points off it. You get a bit more flexibility with pfSense but in most home environments it’s not needed.

            • Macaroni9538@lemmy.mlOP
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              10 months ago

              Wow thanks for the info, sounds like some hefty stuff to learn lol. So I’m kinda broke and can’t afford new hardware ATM. I only have a tp Link archer ax1800 WiFi 6 router and a belkin rt3200 because I read its great for openwrt. Wellll openwrt completely overwhelmed me so I never got a chance to properly implement it. One of these days I’ll need to sit down with more patience and try to understand the firmware better

              • SirEDCaLot@lemmy.fmhy.net
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                10 months ago

                Try dd-wrt firmware. Lets you dip your toe into the water so to speak, with a lot less of the complication of openwrt. At least it used to when I last used it several years ago.

                If you have a spare old PC, pfSense is a great way to screw around. Even if it only has one NIC there is (or at least used to be) basic hostap support so you could use the builtin wifi card as a base station. Otherwise spend $20 on a supported USB-Ethernet adapter and you’ve got yourself a router to play with.

  • vettnerk@lemmy.ml
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    10 months ago

    Servers: Supermicro. Dell in a pinch
    Switches: HPE Aruba for 10gig, or Mellanox for 100gig
    Routers: I’m not that picky, but I use Fortigate as I scavenged some leftovers at work
    UPS: Eaton
    Network cards: Intel for 10gig, IBM for 8 or 16gig, Mellanox for 100gig
    Harddrives: Exos
    RAID stuff: LSI MegaRaid.
    GPU: Don’t really care, but I have a bunch of NVidia Quadro.

    Most of the above preferences are due to scavenging leftover hardware at work.

    • Macaroni9538@lemmy.mlOP
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      10 months ago

      Wow wow wow, you guys are light years ahead of me in the equipment department. I plan to learn and utilize a lot of that stuff but I was more interested in the smaller everyday things like chargers, cables, flash drives, adapters, etc lol still great info though. I was super intruided by supermicros server selection when I went down that rabbit hole. Truth is, I’m not nearly ready for a server yet.

      • vettnerk@lemmy.ml
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        10 months ago

        Depends on which aspect of you needs to be ready. Use case and functionality? Meh, now is as good time as any. Might as well get used to the differences from a desktop to servers early on. Especially if you still don’t really have the knowledge. Learn by doing!

        Budget? True, they can be pricey, even on the after market. But if you or a friend works anywhere that had servers, chances are that the IT department might have something that’d otherwise end up in the trash. A good example here is this VM server with rather old CPUs and 256G of RAM. It wasn’t fit for its pyrpose anymore, and its hardware configuration made it a bad match for our storage clusters. Today it’s a minecraft server for my kids and their friends.

        EDIT: Actually, the older PowerEdge servers feom Dell aren’t that pricey on my local marketplace.

  • Davel23@kbin.social
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    10 months ago

    I was a die-hard Logitech fan for many years, but over the past five or so their quality has really gone downhill, with their prices remaining the same if not increasing. I have a full set of Logitech peripherals but when the time comes to replace them Logitech will not be in the running.

      • Faceman🇦🇺@discuss.tchncs.de
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        10 months ago

        I’ve been using MX masters since the first model, my only gripe however is I always wear through the thumb pad button well before the rest of the mouse is showing any wear, the rubber was just not up to scratch. All of my 2s’s have a hole cut in the rubber there to get to the button below just to make it work.

        The 3s that I have a couple of are pretty sturdy and seem to wear much better in that regard, and the metal scrollwheel on that model is better too as it doesn’t have rubber to wear out and go gummy either.

        The stock pads always wear out super fast too, so I put glass on one of them and it’s been a game changer.

    • Catsrules@lemmy.ml
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      10 months ago

      What do you think will be the alternatives. I have looked around and realistically Logitech kind of dominates the market as far as mice and keyboards.

  • Decronym@lemmy.decronym.xyzB
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    10 months ago

    Acronyms, initialisms, abbreviations, contractions, and other phrases which expand to something larger, that I’ve seen in this thread:

    Fewer Letters More Letters
    Git Popular version control system, primarily for code
    NAS Network-Attached Storage
    NUC Next Unit of Computing brand of Intel small computers
    NVR Network Video Recorder (generally for CCTV)
    PSU Power Supply Unit
    Plex Brand of media server package
    PoE Power over Ethernet
    RAID Redundant Array of Independent Disks for mass storage
    SSD Solid State Drive mass storage
    Unifi Ubiquiti WiFi hardware brand
    VPS Virtual Private Server (opposed to shared hosting)

    11 acronyms in this thread; the most compressed thread commented on today has 7 acronyms.

    [Thread #107 for this sub, first seen 5th Sep 2023, 03:35] [FAQ] [Full list] [Contact] [Source code]

  • sic_semper_tyrannis@feddit.ch
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    10 months ago

    I believe Kingston has the fastest and smallest USB drive out there. I’ve never had an anker product that lasts long but Belkin seems to be good to me. I pick my WiFi routers based on what is supported by OpenWRT. Nitecore makes great batteries and chargers. My Caldigit dock is fantastic

    • Macaroni9538@lemmy.mlOP
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      10 months ago

      Yea I’ve read Caldigit is the gold standard for docking stations; a bit pricy for me ATM though. I think I shall get a dell dock, which should work good with my dell laptop :) What about cables and adapters and chargers? have any specific favorites for those types of things?

      • sic_semper_tyrannis@feddit.ch
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        10 months ago

        Besides Nitecore for various battery types and cameras I don’t have a preference as long as it’s a quality brand so I don’t fry anything. I am waiting for higher output GaN chargers for USB-C specifically. I have yet to find any though if anyone else knows of any.

        • Macaroni9538@lemmy.mlOP
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          10 months ago

          I need to look into GaN chargers. I keep hearing about them but not too sure why they’re so popular

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                10 months ago

                I think I’ve seen the company in the past but wasn’t really aware of them. Sadly their one port output still only maxes at 140W with the GaN unit. Thanks for the tip

    • Catsrules@lemmy.ml
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      10 months ago

      What USB drive is the Kingston drive? I looked years ago but all of them sucked on write speed. The best one I found was SanDisk Extreme PRO USB 3.2. I think it is actually a solids state drive vs a traditional USB drive. It definitely isn’t the smallest flash drive, but I am not waiting 30 minutes to copy of 4GB ISO file to it.

      • sic_semper_tyrannis@feddit.ch
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        10 months ago

        I totally get you with not wanting to wait ages to copy stuff. The Kingston Data Traveler Max. It’s USB 3.2x2. I suppose it’s not as fast as the new USB4 devices but I suspect they’ll eventually release a new version. It’s the same speeds as the SanDisk Extreme V2 (non Pro). So very fast but not quite besting SanDisk but it has a smaller footprint going for it without a dongle essentially.

        • Catsrules@lemmy.ml
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          10 months ago

          Oh wow that is really fast drive. I will have to take a look at that one. Glad to see other companies are starting to come out with fast drives.

          A few years ago when I was looking the SanDisk was the only drive that was actually fast on writing. Every flash drive I found basically lied about the write speed. They would say oh it is 300mbps but when it would only be able to sustain that speed for a very short time then it would would drop to a slow crawl of 10mbps sometimes even less. One drive was 3mpbs. Or they wouldn’t advertise the write speed at all and just focus on read speeds.

          There was those portable SSDs but they were still a little big and I wanted something small I could carry with keys.

    • Macaroni9538@lemmy.mlOP
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      10 months ago

      Oh I also got a Belkin RT3200 router because I read it is the best budget router for OpenWRT, but I realized I am way in over my head with OpenWRT lol so I’ve backed off from that project for now. I shall get to it someday though

      • sic_semper_tyrannis@feddit.ch
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        10 months ago

        It’s definitely complicated for me too. It took me many videos and articles to figure out how to set it up. I realized ram and on board storage is very important for how many plugins you can use.

        • Macaroni9538@lemmy.mlOP
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          10 months ago

          Thanks. could you clarify the ram issue? you mean just by setting up a swap? and on board storage, are you referring to creating a separate partition for storage? how would you get all three distros to automatically store things on that drive?

          • sic_semper_tyrannis@feddit.ch
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            10 months ago

            Memory and storage are the two big potential limitations. As you install various plugins under the “Software” section (If you choose to) your memory and storage space will quickly start to get eaten up as visualized under the “Software” and “Overview” sections. For instance, Adguard Home could be something worth installing but it’s also a heavy program. It requires 50MB of free memory and over 100MB of free storage. I have the memory but not the storage space required (even before any other plugins were installed). However there is a way to add extra root storage to your router via a USB drive but it’s also quite a process to get that sorted.

              • sic_semper_tyrannis@feddit.ch
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                10 months ago

                Haha I am by no means a tech expert. I just get focused on something and learn all about it. I do tend to forget a lot about it later too!